BEST SAUSAGE (2007)
Tucked into a quiet residential 'hood, Kris Kreiger's Berea butcher shop and smokehouse, Chef's Choice Meats, is off the beaten path. But creations like smoked German salami, dry-cured Spanish chorizo, and Cajun-style andouille make it worth the detour. On any day, you'll find as many as 50 different sausages -- from chubby veal brats, all-beef franks, and smoked kielbasa to mellow, country-style links, fragrant with maple, sage, and thyme. For food fans who favor earthy antipasti platters, rustic charcuterie spreads, or a damn fine deli sandwich, the possibilities here could bring you to your knees.
HIDING THE SAUSAGE
Tucked into a quiet residential 'hood, the circa-1906 building is well off the beaten path. But after spending the past few days nibbling on such Kreiger creations as smoked German salami, dry-cured Spanish chorizo, and Cajun-style andouille, we swear it's worth the detour.
In fact, the self-taught Kreiger could well be Cleveland's answer to Armandino Batali (Mario's dad), Seattle's top-ranked maker of artisanal salumi. Of course, Kreiger doesn't limit himself to Italian-style meats -- although he does those extremely well. (We're thinking of his rich Genoa salami, made with pork, red wine, and ginger, and his pungent, dry-cured Italian sausage, a small riot of buttery, tart, and peppery overtones, and -- when sliced into sheer buttons -- nearly as lovely as stained glass.) On any given day, shoppers will find as many as 50 different types of sausages on hand -- everything from chubby veal brats, all-beef franks, and smoked kielbasa to mellow, country-style links, fragrant with maple, sage, and thyme.
Then there's the succulent smoked salmon, the floral-scented corned beef, and the choice mortadella, with white wine, peppercorns, and pistachios. And don't overlook Kreiger's Gouda and cheddar cheeses. For those who favor earthy antipasti platters, rustic charcuterie spreads, or just a damn fine deli-style sandwich, the possibilities could bring you to your knees.
Beyond the smoked and cured meats, Kreiger also offers Ohio-raised pork, Amish poultry, and Ohio beef, including USDA Prime steaks. Ready-to-eat options include made-to-order sandwiches and homemade chicken and potato salads; and for heat 'n' eaters, possibilities include homemade goulash, paprikash, and pork schnitzel.
Finally, there's a small collection of well-chosen wines, a cooler filled with imported beers, and dairy products from Wooster's Hartzler Dairy.
By Elaine CicoraThe Cleveland Scene back to top
Kris Kreiger ditched his restaurant plans in favor of opening his own butcher shop. His store, Chef's Choice Meats in Berea (127 West St., 440.234.3880), stocks Ohio-raised poultry, pork and beef, including USDA prime, and he'll cut damn near anything off a cow that you'd fancy to grill and eat. Kreiger also crafts his own sausages and salamis, including andouille and chorizo.
RESTAURANT GUIDE
Charcuterie, salami, or cured meat . . . whatever you call it, chances are that chef Kris Kreiger makes it in his spotless smokehouse, butcher shop, and gourmet market in Berea. Scores of fresh and smoked sausages are always in stock, along with smoked hams, chops, and bacon. Kreiger also makes many of his own deli meats (featured in a collection of carryout sandwiches) and offers a selection of heat-and-eat dishes for home preparation.
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